Firstly, apologies to all those who followed my previous gap year blog, which was terminated early in its life due to unforeseen laziness on the author's part. The complaints were thick and passionate, and I now write with a renewed dedication and all-consuming love towards my readership. I shall not let you down this time, so keep f*****g checking this blog and leave flattering comments below.
Now, I regret to inform you that all the gap year cliches are true. In 2007 I really did "find myself" in India. But unfortunately I didn't take myself back to the UK. Hence this current trip back to India, where I must find myself, again. Such is the dilemma of the travel bug.
Roughly sketched, my plan is to start in Delhi, leave for Shimla, then bus it into the Kinnaur valley, up through the Spiti valley, sideways into Lauhaul, onto Manali, upwards into Ladakh, possibly a side trip into Zanskar, then finally a flight back from Leh to Delhi, where I shall buy vast spoils of useless crap before flying back to London. Now, for some of you these names may as well be referring to Siberian mining towns. But simply put, I shall be pushing far up into the northern reaches of the Indian Himalaya, mostly within Jammu and Kashmir state - but not in the Kashmir Valley (Srinigar and thereabouts) where nasty bombs like to go "bang" rather a lot. I shall never knowingly step out of India, despite often being a yak's spit away from the Tibetan (/Chinese - take your pick according to political bent) border.
The lure for me is not only the high altitude scenery - barren moonscapes a la Afganistan - but also the well-preserved tantric buddhist culture harboured in Spiti and Ladakh, possibly more Tibetan than Tibet itself, considering that Chinese soldiers haven't been scampering around trashing the monasteries and slapping up the monks (though a chunk of Ladakh is currently occupied by China). Indeed, the cultural links between Ladakh and India proper are tenuous, and its inclusion in the Indian Union was due to its former status as a British protectorate, just like the easterly Himalayan state of Sikkim (I've been there too - not boasting).
In the course of my seven week quest (26 June till 14 August) I shall suffer endless excruciating bus rides on less-than-perfect roads (some among the highest in the world), brutal heat (Delhi), bitter cold, an absurd amount of chai and extreme isolation. Much of my time will hopefully be spent trekking - the plan is to gang up with other travelers in Leh (I'm traveling solo), hire a peasant and pony to guide us, and head up yonder mountains.
My blog posts may well be a tad erratic, as rural Ladakh is hardly dotted with internet cafes. But never despair - your hero shall do his utmost to keep you posted. Who knows, he may even inspire you to head to Ladakh yourself. All the best, see you in a little while.
Love Ben (wayfaring student) xxx
P.S. There shall be no pictures of me sat on elephants. Ok? Get over it.
About Me
- ben dunant
- 'A bit common, but speaks nicely' - Tatler. 'The next Lancelot' - Der Spiegel. 'Not in the least magical' - The Daily Prophet.
3 comments:
Be super aware and enjoy it. Take your time getting up there to prepare yourself for the altitude. We are all thinking of you.
Happy to see you on the road again. I’ve lost your e-mail so I’ll write you here. I felt the same need to return to India as you’re feeling. I loved your description of Delhi, spot on. I’ve been there a few times and somehow I always end up in Paharganj. I don’t know why; it’s a cesspool. You’re going to LOVE Ladakh! I spent about a month there and it will always be one of the most memorable places for me. Things are changing very quickly there. The youth are embracing western culture and traditional ways of life are disappearing quickly. Get out into the small towns, it’s fascinating how people survive in such harsh conditions. You should try and make it over to Kashmir as the trekking is incredible. Live on a houseboat in Srinagar – very swanky for India. Not sure what the situation is now but those warnings are always exaggerated. Although very beautiful, the bus from Manali to Leh is HELL! Try to break the journey up as much as possible. Send me a reply at ledzeppelen@hotmail.com so I can get your address. My girlfriend and I are going on a year trip in October. Malaysia to England overland with quick stops in Fiji and Australia. Hopefully we’ll be able to meet up when I’m there.
John Velick
Excellent journal keeping Benedict. I look forward to your return. Happy Birthday! I hope you are enjoying it in the traditional manner also.
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